South Africa … Cape Town, mostly

First, I should say that Cape Town is gorgeous. The landscape is green and sweeping, the mountains are majestic, and the sea smells amazing. Go a bit further north (about 15 miles) and you find wine country that looks like Napa and produces delicious wines I could drink every night. The beauty of this place makes it obvious why the Brits and the Dutch would want to colonize it. The stories of sailors and the Cape of Good Hope are inspiring. And the animals … well, South Africa is home to African “Jackass” penguins, the second smallest species of penguin … need I say more when it’s a family favorite animal?

We spent a day touring Soweto and the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg on our way to Tanzania. When we came back to South Africa, we went straight to Cape Town. We spent a week there, enjoying the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, touring the Cape Peninsula (Cape of Good Hope and Boulder’s Beach with the penguins), taking the cable car up Table Mountain, wine tasting in the Stellenbosch winelands, and visiting Robben Island (the former prison where Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners were held during the Apartheid regime). The one thing we didn’t get to do was tour a Cape Town township. After touring Soweto, we didn’t have the heart to go to another township, especially a shanty town with considerably worse conditions. Rumor has it, though, that the Cape Town townships give more hope for the future than the ones near Jo’berg despite the more difficult living conditions.

It was a hard country to visit. The Apartheid government has only been out of power for 12 years. The country has come such a long way in that short period of time … but has much, much further to go before it is “out of the woods.” One of the first things people tell you when you reach South Africa … especially Johannesburg, but other cities as well, the warning is just someone less urgent … is “watch out for personal safety at all times.” And they’re not joking – violent crime is not uncommon in this country. The motivation for much of it continues to be extreme poverty.

The majority of our information about culture and living conditions came from tour guides. And, admittedly, most of our tour guides were white males. If I had to guess age, I’d say mid-30 to just retired. The picture they painted of life in South Africa is pretty bleak – considerable crime, government corruption, affirmative action programs that make it difficult for white people to find jobs (and subsequent “flight” of educated white professionals), lack of infrastructure maintenance, and unequal wealth redistribution (money doesn’t reach all the sectors of the population that need it – any redistribution has created a new “black upper class”). The “Coloured” tour guide we had was much more hopeful. He told us of the increased business opportunities, the freedom to live wherever you want (and the fact that doesn’t seem to lead to more violence), more foreign investment in South Africa, more trade exports, and the government taking care of the poor by giving them housing and creating job opportunities. I think the truth is somewhere in the middle, but probably closer to the second portrayal than the first.

Never in my life have I wanted a personal guide to teach me how to live – other than the time we were in South Africa. I’d never traveled to a place where I didn’t know how to feel safe before. And the safety warnings, barbed wire everywhere, many security gates and electric fences, and admonitions not to walk anywhere at night made me feel unsafe. But many people who live here love the country and would not dream of leaving. “This beautiful sunshine – that’s why I could never leave South Africa,” said one girl from Pretoria who was staying in our hostel. And I want to know how to live with those extremes – with simultaneous hope and caution.

Soweto and Apartheid Museum – Jo’Berg

We spent the majority of our 48 hour transit time between Phuket and Tanzania in Johannesburg. Before you get the idea that this was a surprise to us, let me say it was planned and we even had a tour booked to fill the most part of the time that would otherwise have been spent in the Johannesburg airport.

We had seen the Apartheid Museum as part of a travel show on TV while we were still in Seattle and thought it looked like an intriguing way to spend an afternoon. We booked the other half of the tour – through the Soweto township – as a way to see a bit more of Johannesburg. I’m not sure entirely what I was expecting … but I know it wasn’t the crash course in South African history and healthy dose of shame and fear that we got.

Soweto, as it turns out, is not nearly as awful-looking as it seems on TV. Never believe what they tell you in the movies, right? I don’t want to discount the fact that the people who lived there when it was first created were moved there forcibly because the government wanted to be able to control the black people and thought they could do that better in a planned “township” outside Johannesburg city that had plumbing, etc. than in a shanty town. But now it looks mostly like suburbia … perhaps more Tukwila than Issaquah, but suburbia nonetheless.

We spent our time in Soweto going through the Hector Petersen museum and Nelson Mandela’s former house (now a museum). For those who aren’t aware – like I wasn’t – Hector Petersen was a very young black student who was killed in riots that started on June 16, 1976. Those riots were among the first violent acts in a series of events that eventually led to the end of Apartheid. The museum in his honor chronicles the events that led up to Apartheid and the riots in which he was killed. The day we went was June 20, 2006 … shortly after the 30 year anniversary of the riots, so there were lots of school children there to learn about what happened when their parents were young.

The house that’s the Nelson Mandela museum is where he and Winnie Mandela brought up their 3 daughters and where he stayed for 11 days after being released from Robben Island (near Cape Town). Apparently, so many people visited him at all hours of the day and night that he had to move elsewhere. It’s a small 4-room house built by the Apartheid government. Honestly, I was too tired to be much impressed or not impressed by it … it just seemed like a small house. Surprising for someone of Mandela’s current international status, but comfortable and livable and probably huge for the time he lived in it, bringing up his girls.

The Apartheid Museum, where we spent the afternoon, is quite something. It chronicles the history of Apartheid from its early roots to the establishment of the new South African constitution in 1994. It’s filled with photos and film strips and lots and lots of plaques to read about what happened when and to whom, who the major players were, etc. I think the most startling thing to me was watching films of Winnie Mandela urging black people to fight (“we don’t have guns … but we have matches, and we have bottles, and we have petrol”) and then of what happened in the black townships after the government established the state of emergency toward the end of Apartheid rule. The government talks about how it’s the only black government to have been established without war … but the beatings in those films sure look like videos of war to me. The other thing about those state of emergency films was watching them with young black South Africans who clearly had no idea of what they were watching.

Highlights of the new South African constitution are displayed at the end of the museum. It includes, among other things, the right not to be discriminated against because of age, race, sex, creed, sexual orientation, etc. as well as the recognition of 9 tribal languages plus Afrikaans and English as official languages. And then our driver talked about how lots of young people don’t even vote anymore … only 12 years after the first democratic elections. I just don’t know what to think….

What’s a Western Girl to Think?

I had pretty bad culture shock as we drove back from Ngorogoro Crater (just next to the Serengetti) to Arusha at the end of our safari. I know a lot of it was just normal transition from national park/wilderness setting to the city. This happens to me in the States, too. Dirt road becomes paved (there’s a whole discourse that could go here about why the World Bank chose to pave the road to the Serengetti national park rather than between large cities in Tanzania … but I don’t know enough about politics to go there). There are more people and more noise.

And then I have so many thoughts about how little I really know about the people I’m driving past. That happens at home, too, sometimes as close to my house as Broadway … and that’s just 2 blocks! But at home, most of those people and I take a lot of the same things for granted: clean running water, electricity, walls that mostly keep out the cold. And many Tanzanians who live in cities have walls that would keep out most of the cold, probably spotty electricity, and maybe running water … but don’t drink it. Even in Arusha – which is a big city – I saw residents doing laundry and bathing in the river (a naked black man bathing in the middle of a city stream is quite the unexpected site!). Most people in the country, though, live in houses with thin walls, with no running water and no electricity.

I don’t mean to say these things because I pity the people. Tanzanians are obviously proud people. They dress gorgeously, in amazing beautiful, bright colors (the clothes are always clean), are fun to talk to, and work REALLY hard. And the ones we met were really pleased to show us what little bit of their country they could (even if it was the server talking about where they came from and their job). But their lives are so different from mine.

All this musing made me realize that I don’t even have a framework to process most of what I’d seen there. I had this thought in Thailand, too … the way I think about things, what I expect is so rooted in my experiences in America and the mostly western countries I’ve visited and in my education (also western). I’m not sure what it would take to really understand Tanzania, other parts of Africa, or even Thailand … other than lots of time and patience and probably living in the country, too.

Bigger Isn’t Always Better

Our first game viewing day on this trip was in Arusha National Park. It’s the smallest National Park in Tanzania but also has the distinction of being the only one where the animals are sufficiently accustomed to humans that tourists can go for a guided hike with a ranger. Tanzanian citizens don’t need the ranger (and often walk the main road just to get to the town on the other side).

I don’t know if I fell in love with Arusha N.P. because it was our first day of animal viewing, because of the hike, because of the guides (including our ranger, Bennett), because we saw so much wildlife, or because of the actual animals we saw. The setting – both physical and emotional – really made the animals stand out in exciting ways.

That first day, we saw: zebra, water buffalo, giraffe, sacred ibis, dik dik, baboons, black and white Colobus monkeys, flamingos, Egyptian duck, egret, golden-billed stork, waterbok, evidence (semi-digested and spit-up grass) of hippos traveling the night before, warthog, and many other birds whose names I don’t recall. It was a bright day, but not too hot, and the scenery was like tropical rainforest … lush, green trees and bright grass. It wasn’t the savannah I’d imagined we’d see for the entirety of the safari, but the animals seemed right at home. It was like they were coming out to play for us.

Also, this was the day where we learned the most Swahili. “Affia,” which means “bless you, or more specifically, “health.” And “Kua koma mgombo wandeezi,” which apparently means “Grow fast like a banana tree.” Since you’re supposed to say the second phrase after the first, we think growing like a banana tree must be evidence of being healthy. There’s also another part that goes on the end of that … something about coconut trees always being late … but I had trouble remembering that one.

Wildebeest Migration

Since being on safari in Tanzania, I’ve learned that the wildebeest migration technically occurs all year round. It’s just where you are and where the animals are that determine if you get to experience it. Thankfully, we were in the same place as the wildebeest during this trip.

I think this is what it must have been like when the American buffalo “roamed the plains” before their numbers were decimated. While you are driving through one of the numerous migration herds, there are wildebeest (and the zebra and Thompson gazelle that travel with them) as far as the eye can see. Everywhere you look, there are wildebeest – grunting (somewhere between a hollow cow sound, a frog, and serious flatulence), playing, eating, sleeping, and battling it out over who gets the most females.

As with many experiences on this part of the trip, I had no concept of what this would be like before I saw it. It’s really powerful. And at the same time, it’s very peaceful. And the crazy noises these animals make cause me to laugh out loud.

There’s only one downside … so many wildebeest and zebra make it hard to find lions.

Things (about safari) That Make You Go, “Hmmmm….”

• We met a Kenyan man on a rest stop during our bus ride from Nairobi to Arusha (where the safari started). He told us about how he knew the man who was the “Terminator” from the movies was now governor in California. He had read in the newspaper that this man was up for re-election, but it was unsure if he would win. His opinion? “I would vote for him – he is obviously a great warrior.”
• Elephants sleep standing up … it’s too far to the ground to lay down and besides their “hip” joints bend the wrong way.
• The blisteringly hot weather you expect in Africa, especially near the equator just isn’t here. The only time you really feel the heat in the sun is from 11 AM to just before 2 PM, and then only in the sun. When you’re in the shade, it can be downright chilly. According to our guide, this is pretty normal weather … if it gets more than about 5 degrees Celsius warmer, people talk about how unusual the weather is.
• So many songbirds!!! I imagined Tanzania and safari with lots of big game, but never thought about the fact that I would be awakened by songbirds.
• African elephants are huge! They aren’t as playful as the Asian ones, either. In fact, we had two big bull elephants test charge our Land Rover. Our driver/guide, Ben, has a technique to make the elephants think we’re a big enough animal to cut off its trunk (which would be the end of the elephant since it wouldn’t be able to eat) – rev the engine. Phew! It worked both times!
• Palm trees.
• A Maasai man, who while showing you the inside of his home, asks to change his Tanzanian shillings to United States dollars.
• Baboons are so like humans – and so playful!!! We spent a couple of hours over the course of two afternoons watching three baboon families. I wish it had been longer. Now that it’s later in the trip, I find myself wishing we could stop our hunt for big game long enough to watch the baboons play and groom each other.
• Zebra are shaped like donkeys, striped like race cars, and make a noise like a sick puppy barking/being stepped on.
• The hotel reception clerk whose first question to me when he got me alone was, “so when are you going to buy me an airplane ticket to America?” “I want to come stay with you and your husband and your parents.” When I pressed him for what he would do there, the answer was “maybe study” though later (really from the beginning, given then forthrightness of his question) it became obvious he wanted to get out of Tanzania so he can make some money. I told him I wouldn’t be buying him the ticket. He was disappointed. “All these American women are just not willing to cheat on their husbands! They are so in love they won’t buy me an airplane ticket.”
• Lions can sleep in trees.
• Almost no Tanzanian food at the lodge/hotels and a guide who can’t take you to a restaurant where you can get some.
• Mobile phones that work where there are no paved roads and the generator power (at luxury lodges) goes out at 11PM.
• Free internet in the middle of the Serengetti.

Title Goes Here

So I know we came to Tanzania to go on safari. I know, too, that “safari” is practically synonymous with animals and pictures of animals. But I really thought that we would still get to interact with Tanzanian culture at some level. And we haven’t.

We arrived at our first lodge, Arusha Mountain Village Lodge (http://www.serenahotels.com/tanzania/mountainvillage/home.asp) and the first thought that went through my head as we walked in the door was “How fabulous! This looks like the lodges of the 1920s and 1930s, where you might see Somerset Maughan or Mark Twain or some dashing British officer coming around the corner at any minute. I’m so excited to be part of adventure travel like that!” And it has continued that way. Think of dashing gentlemen in safari outfits, swanky lodges in the middle of nowhere, and all the British colonial travel extravagance you can think of … minus the lavish dances at night and the long duration of travel on ships but plus modern conveniences like showers… and that’s what life has been like. We even had free internet at one lodge in the middle of the Serengetti (it was $1 for 2 minutes in most of the other lodges).

It has been a beautiful, luxurious, exciting, and simple way to travel. And we’ve had almost none of the culture shock we expected. But we also haven’t gotten really any sense of what Tanzanian culture is like, apart from interactions with travel guides and hotel staff. In some ways, it feels like we’re being deliberately separated from learning about day-to-day Tanzanian life.

Andrew pointed out that you really don’t get a sense of what American day-to-day life is when you visit National Parks in the United States, either. So maybe that is part of what I’m experiencing.

Still, almost all the guests at the lodges are European, Asian, or American – and normally white. Tanzanians – probably most Africans – normally can’t afford even the money to pay for transportation to their own National Parks, much less the entrance fee (for them, the equivalent of about US $1.50, higher for tourists – about US $50), or the time off to go on a holiday. When you talk with the lodge staff, most of them are at the lodges for 2 to 3 months at a time, then have a week off to go visit their family – if they can’t find other work for that week. I’m really unsure when these people have a chance to see their families – it sounds like they’re never home, let alone at the same time as their spouses and children.

I had an interesting conversation with an American woman who has been in Dar-es-Salaam for a year while her husband taught on Fulbright Scholarship. She indicated the vestiges of the old colonial lifestyles are still very strong, as are the class and race distinctions that would have gone along with them. According to her report, many black Tanzanians will give you the answer you want to hear to your questions about lifestyle, money, and even animals, rather than the answer than what may be the true answer. And they still address white people as “madam,” “sir,” and “papa” (for older men), even when there’s not any reason for that kind of salutation.

Look!! I see a stick!!!

There’s nothing like spending 10 days in some the most famous National Parks in Africa to make one realize just how little one knows about animals – especially what they really look like.

I’ve been to zoos – I promise! So at least in theory I know what a lion looks like. Also a giraffe, an elephant, and a zebra. But I can’t tell you how many times in the past week I’ve mistaken sticks and rocks for these animals. Some of the animals are even VERY big. You’d think: 1 - you'd be able to see the animal was there, and 2 - the difference between an elephant and a rock would be obvious. Or the difference between a cracked branch and a lion. Apparently not.

I suppose there is one other reasonable explanation for my complete lack of animal-spotting talent: I want to see the animals. I imagine they’re everywhere.

There are lots of animals, don’t get me wrong. I have seen more animals in a more concentrated area than ever before in my life. Seeing baboons, giraffe, elephants, gazelle, hippos, crocodiles, kori bustards, etc in their home environment has been incredible. No wonder the ones in the zoos at home look so sad. Compared to here, there is really so little space for them to roam around in zoos … and so little company for them. Even at Woodland Park Zoo or the Wild Animal Park in San Diego.

But the Serengetti (especially, of all the Parks we’ve been in) is a big place. There are huge concentrations of animals and huge expanses of grass and trees. And when you’re searching for lions, leopards, and cheetah in grass as tall as any of those cats …. Well, let’s say with a little imagination a stick can appear to be just about anythinhg.